Welcome!

I went to Iona, Scotland for Easter week in 2008. I admit that I was more than a bit anxious about the travel involved. I'm a bit of an anxious traveler. I like to know EVERYTHING I can about the actual transportation part up-front. Yes, I'm the geek that actually clicks on the "type of aircraft" link before booking a flight.

I always thought that my travel worries were unique to me. Then, after telling friends I was headed to Iona, many people admitted that they had wanted to go but were intimidated by the travel process.

So, this little blog is for you, the anxious traveler. You won't find information about actually being at Iona here--there are plenty of other places for that--and really, I don't think anything can prepare you for it. But you will find one person's experience of getting there and back, without loss of life, luggage, mind or lunch.

If you've gone to Iona before, please feel free to add your comments to this.
Bon Voyage!

Flight

I flew into Glasgow (changing planes in Amsterdam). It was great to fly straight there, but if I had it to do over, I would have at least checked into flying to London and taking the train over. There was only one flight a day from my home that got me to Glasgow. I'm sure I would have had more options flying in and out of London.

Staying in Glasgow

We arrived the day before, and spent an afternoon and night in Glasgow. I struggled to find a place to stay, not knowing the city very well. Eventually, through hotels.com, I purchased a night at Jury's Inn on Jamaica Street. It was much cheaper through hotels.com than it was booking directly. (I think I paid $120 American, and when we arrived it was 120 pounds--double the price.)One advantage to pre-booking using American dollars (if you're American, that is!) is you won't have to pay an international fee on your debit-card. If you choose to book online, the neighborhood you are looking for will not be labeled as Queen Street Station. I used the search term Buchanan Street Station, and found many options. The two train stations are very close together, and the other is well known. Many of my friends have booked B & Bs for Glasgow. I knew that I'd be jet-lagged, and wouldn't really appreciate anything nice, so I went for something very basic.

We took a taxi from the airport, although we could have taken a city bus. Taxis were very cheap.

Jury's Inn was fine, an American-style hotel with private baths. It was very clean. It was about a 10-15 minute walk to the train station the next morning, and about 20 minute walk to the Glasgow Cathedral and St. Mungo's museum, which entertained us in the afternoon.

On the return, we stayed at the hostel, which was cheap, (less than half that of the hotel), very clean, very safe, and staffed by very helpful people who aided us in finding traditional Scottish fare for our last night. If I had it to do over again, I would have just stayed there both nights. The accommodations are spartan--metal bunk beds, linoleum floors. But, unlike many hostels, you can actually book a private room or a room for 2 (as we did) with a private bathroom. Since all we wanted to do in our room was sleep, it was perfect. There was a tiny coin-operated TV in the room, but I really couldn't see hanging out there very long. There are also lounges, laundry rooms, a bar and a kitchen that were probably all more comfortable--but we never went to check them out.

Train-Glasgow to Oban

We arrived a day early in Glasgow, and went in search of the train station. We knew we'd be taking an early train and wanted to be sure we knew how to get there. The train schedule is available on-line.

When we found the Queen Street station, we discovered that we could buy our train tickets early, and they were significantly cheaper. The downside to this is that you have to commit to a specific return train to get the cheaper fare.

When you buy your ticket, either that day or early, you'll be given an assigned car and seat. It's really important, even if there are few people boarding the train, to go to your actual assigned car. The reason for this is that mid-way through the route, they detach a few cars so that they can be re-attached to a different train going to a different place!

On the trip there, the train was nearly empty. We actually moved around a bit in order to catch the best views. The return trip was, quite literally, standing room only. Having pre-purchased a seat was a bonus for us, as we actually had a place to sit. Those that just boarded with no ticket were sometimes required to stand for the entire route!

There are bathrooms on the train, and during the trip, an attendant will push a cart with drinks and snacks for purchase through the train. The selection isn't great, but they have tea and coffee, pop, and a few sweets or crackers for sale.

We passed all sorts of beautiful places, and I was able to get photos out the train window.

The Oban Ferry

I admit that I was worried about the ferry. I thought I'd get motion sick. I was worried I'd miss the ferry. Both worries were unfounded.

The reality is that the ferry is huge. Gargantuan. Massive. You get the picture. You don't feel the movement of the boat at all. Motion-sickness is really not an option, unless you get car-sick in your own living room!

Okay, the important details.
You can see the ferry from the train. as you get off the train, you have to walk a little bit of a maze to find the place where you buy the tickets for the ferry, but really, you can't lose sight of the ferry's location because it's just so big. We raced over there from the train, only to discover that the ferry waiting at the dock was not headed to Craignure. In fact, despite information to the contrary from both Iona Community AND the website, the ferry we expected at noonish wasn't running. It apparently didn't run on Wednesdays prior to Easter. Here's the company's web-site with information about the schedules and fares: http://www.calmac.co.uk/. We purchased our round-trip tickets for both the Oban ferry and the Fionnphort ferry at the ferry-station. We booked the final ferry of the day to Iona. One must actually get a reservation for this ferry, apparently, as it doesn't run if guests aren't reserved. The ticket-agent at Oban called in this reservation for us.

We ended up with about a 4 hour wait for our ferry. This wasn't really a hardship at all. The ferry station has luggage lockers, but due to national security concerns they were not in use. The train station's luggage lockers WERE in use, and are well worth the pound to lock up your stuff and go about your business.

The little town of Oban is very walk-able. We entertained ourselves by wandering about in the shops and checking out the small boats in the harbor.There are Scottish tourist shops everywhere, and we were able to pick up some good maps of Iona, as well a some post-cards and stamps. For some odd reason, there were also quite a few "charity shops" (i.e. thrift stores) which made for some fun browsing, as well. On the return trip, I did some quick souvenir shopping at a large store right next to the train station. They had a good selection of short-bread and post-cards and what-not.

There are lots of restaurants of all types and expense levels in Oban. There is a charming sandwich stand right next to the ferry station where we got prawn sandwiches. Mine ended up being stolen by pigeons, but actually sharing one was quite sufficient. (The sandwiches were so good that we made a point of grabbing some to go on the return trip. Beat the train food, hands-down!) Eventually we went into the ferry-station, which is large, safe, well-lit. There are bathrooms and vending machines there.

You should be in the ferry station by about 20 minutes before departure. They load up cars first, and then people. Once they start loading people, they really hurry you along. If you walk slowly or are corralling children, I'd get there even earlier to be at the front of the line. You enter the ferry at car-level, and then have to walk up a flight of stairs (or more) to get to where you want to go. There is a small elevator as well. On the way to Iona, I went up in the elevator with all my stuff. On the return trip, we barely made the ferry (as we'd had to call a cab instead of the bus), and they didn't want to take the time to operate the elevator for us. Instead, they just let us store our luggage on the car-level, which was apparently not normal but rather handy!

The ferry has several levels, and you should follow signs to the luggage-room to store your bags. You'll really want to be able to wander about, and the bags will really slow you down. There will be some sort of food on the ferry. There was a large cafeteria and a bar on our ferry out-bound. The return ferry was smaller, with no bar, and a smaller cafeteria. There will be restrooms, and a smoking area (outside). (Note that when you are Iona bound, this is your last chance for food or bathrooms.) There are inside seating areas with big windows to see outside. I liked just going outdoors to see it all go by. The scenery is gorgeous!

Bus across Mull.

Bowman's Coaches offers bus service from Craignure to Fionnphort. Unfortunately, bus or car is your only option.

Purchase your tickets as you board. You'll have the option of round-trip (which saves money) or one-way. We got round-trip. This ended up being not the best plan as they did not have room for us on the return trip, and we lost our money (ended up taking a taxi, see the post about the taxi). Note that they do not take reservations, they do not promise you anything (when we didn't get on the bus, others with no tickets did)and they only run a few times a day.

The busses are easy to identify. As we exited the ferry at Craignure, we could see two busses waiting. One was headed elsewhere, and the bus-drivers were very good about asking your destination before selling you a ticket. They are modern, comfortable coaches. There is very limited over-head luggage storage. Store everything possible underneath. The busses have no bathrooms, and no food.

You travel a very winding path (if you get motion sickness, this is the spot to take the pills) across the island. You will pass many gorgeous sites. Large windows make it easy to take in the views. The bus stops at times to let sheep cross, and pulls over to allow cars to travel in the opposite direction. It's a one-lane road. Other than these "pauses" there are no stops, so you don't need to worry about missing your stop.

Final Ferry

The last ferry is the easiest. The ferry is literally waiting for you as you get off the bus. Here's the time-table, just in case you drive.

The ferry is small with room for a handful of cars, and maybe 50 or so people. There are some indoor bench seats, and you can also go outside on the dock. I recommend this, as you can see the island as you arrive. Just dump your bags and enjoy the view!

No bathrooms or food on this leg, but the journey is very quick (10 minutes). There are bathrooms at the ferry waiting area at Fionnphort, and again at the landing area in Iona.

If you're staying with the Iona community, they will be waiting for you at the ferry port. There were also folks there to greet people staying at the hotels. I think only Bishop's House and Catholic House guests had to make their own way--but really, it's not hard at all.

Yet Another Travel Option

On our return trip, 7 of us had the not-very-fun experience of not getting a seat on the bus (despite having already purchased return tickets!). As the bus-driver left with the packed bus at 9:10 a.m., he told us that the next bus would be coming at 11:50. The seven of us took shelter in a ferry waiting room--which sported 3 vinyl couches and pay toilets, and nothing else to do or see. We were all fuming/bummed/worried about missed flights/trains, etc.

One of us (not me) was brilliant, though, and got to digging around on bulletin boards. He found a business card for a taxi, called it, and got them to come for us. The driver, a lovely woman, not only got out to the ferry station, picked us all up (in an 8 seater van) and hauled us to Craignure on time, she also gave us a running commentary about the many things (historical, geological, natural, cultural) we saw enroute. The total fare was 70 pounds, which, divided by the 7 of us was quite reasonable.

She told us, though, that her taxi (her husband David Greenhlalgh is the primary driver) specializes in airport pick-ups. They will pick up a group (or individual) at Glasgow airport and drive you all the way to Fionnport ferry. The cost was 250 pounds (I'm certain that might vary based on season) each way plus the cost of your ferry tickets (from Oban). The van gets on the ferry with you. This is a rather reasonable rate for a group--especially if it means you can avoid the cost of a night in Glasgow.I can imagine, also, that if carrying your luggage or chasing around small (or large) children were a hardship, it would be worth the cost. (And if her husband knows even half of what she knows about the area, you'd be in for a treat.)

The company's name is Mull and Iona Taxi. Their website www.mullionataxi.com would be the best way to reach them. Their business card gives a telephone number of 0788 777 4550.

If nothing else, keep them in mind, in case you get booted off the bus!

Quick Notes on Packing

I wanted to add just a few quick notes on packing. Generally speaking, the Iona Community gives you good advice on that, but a few notes that they didn't tell me:

* They ask you to bring rain-pants for the pilgrimage (and for the other very rainy times). What they don't mention on paper, but do mention when you're physically present is that gaiters are an equally good option. My rain pants took up a lot of space. If I'd known that gaiters worked, I'd have bought them and packed those instead--much smaller and lighter and more versatile. They do have a few pairs of rain-pants available for loan, too.

* I can't speak for the abbey, but the mac is single-sex rooms, but co-ed floors. If your nightwear is more exciting than mine, you might want to consider that in the packing process.

* In the off-season at least, there's really no such thing as packing too many layers.

* I brought my computer, because I had planned to do a lot of writing, and I write on a keyboard. It was worth it for me because Internet wasn't my goal. If I'd hoped to use my computer to connect to the web, I would have been sorely disappointed! There is inexpensive (50 pence for 15 minutes) Internet at St. Columba's Hotel.

* So long as you can carry your own luggage (on wheels or whatever) the equivalent of a city-block, you're fine. You can bring rather heavy bags--nobody cares. Be aware, though, that you will often end up leaving your bags unattended for a period of time--on the ferries, and the train, and when you first arrive and later depart Iona. This took some getting used to on my part; I don't think I've left my bags un-attended since 9/11. If you try to hang on to your bags the whole trip, though, you'll miss out on half the fun of the journey. Be sure to have a small bag where everything valuable goes. Just generally speaking, a small day-pack or shoulder bag is a helpful thing for your time on the island anyway.

* I bought a camping towel for my trip--quick dry, light and small. It was a very good investment. I can't imagine packing a wet towel for the trip home.

* As they mention on the conference information, there are no ATMs on the island. I took that to heart and changed over a lot of money before coming to Iona. The other part, though, is there are few places to actually spend your money! So don't go crazy!

*** Have fun! ****